I spent my summer in Faenza, Italy, learning to paint on clay canvases.  The technique is called maiolica.  That's a glazing technique where brightly colored designs are painted onto white glazed earthenware.

These are some examples of my favorites, which I photographed at Faenza's International Ceramics Museum, the largest ceramics museum in the world.

I lived as an Italian, riding my bicicletta every day 
from my villa to the bottega where I worked.

I did an apprenticeship there with Mirta Morigi, one of Faenza's most exciting maiolica artists.  Her pieces filled the shelves and walls of the bottega.

We worked at small tables surrounded by pots and pieces of her art.

First I learned to glaze the pots.  They were either dipped in the blue container, or sprayed in the booth by Edda, one of the workers at the bottega.

Next, we chose a design.  Maiolica artists often find their designs in history - ancient floor tiles, relief sculpture, and traditional geometric floral patterns.

Or sometimes, as withthis plate by Matisse, 
the subjects are modern.

Mirta showed me how to draw the design directly onto the dish with a soft leaded pencil, or by tamping carbon through tiny holes punched into the design, the technique Michaelangelo used for the Sistine Chapel.

You paint the design from the center, using a banding wheel to make perfect circles.  Then working outwards I painted the orange ovals one after another, finishing them before going onto the next element, the curved line.

   I was often shown several steps and techniques in the process and left to finish on my own.  Mirta would then look at it and give praise or correction.  I believe this style of instruction is much like it was in Renaissance Italy, and even earlier.  And it is still a good classroom technique.    

I was surprised by how hard the women worked in the bottega.  From 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 7 p.m., the small staff glazed, painted and loaded kilns as visitors and tourists streamed through.

During one session, visiting Korean artist Mr. Lee painted 30 plates with wonderful goldfish.

All pieces are hand thrown.  Italian maiolica painters use 
bisque ware made at small factories.

Here, Mirta is shopping for bisque ware.  And here, her car is packed for the trip back to the bottega.  Mirta taught me a lot about ceramics but she also taught me a lot about life in Italy, something I'll always keep.

At least as important as the techniques I learned was the experience of living in another culture - one with such wonderful art and even more wonderful people.  Italians have had so much practice living, and they do it so well.

The piazza, the market, family, good friends.  It was fun and something very special to remember.  Thanks, Lilly Endowment, for making it possible, and thanks, Beppe, for making it happen.

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